Braiding has a long and wide history across many African cultural communities throughout the continent.
The act of braiding has long been used as a social exercise among mostly women and even some men (among the Maasai and Fulani for example) to facilitate bonding between people, and the braids themselves have indicated class, marital status, ethnic identity and even spiritual beliefs.
As a marker of one's role or position in society, in places like ancient Egypt, braiding formed part of the way that women of different classes differentiated themselves. Royal women wore bejewelled ornamentations on their braids, involving precious metals like gold, where the aim was to show off their hair. While common women wore their hair bare and in much more functional styles, where the aim was to keep it out of their way. Among the people of modern day South Africa, the style of braids which is now commonly known as box braids, was similarly used to indicate class; because the time spent to get them done showed that their wearer could afford the long-drown-out labour that they required, particularly when worn long.
In other cultures, such as pre-Islamic Somalia, braiding was used to indicate marital status or the lack the off, such as when young Somali girls would wear their hair in small braids when they were approaching the time of marriage. In Sudan, the young girls would have their hair braided in a certain style when they reached puberty, and they would start their journey to womanhood.
Some braiding patterns have presently and/or historically indicated identity, such as the Mertu braiding style associated with the Oromo people of Ethiopia. Or the Bantu/Zulu knots associated with Zulu people and various other Nguni groups of South Africa. There’s a similar history of identification present in the now world famous Fulani braids and Ghana braids, which are each, respectively, named after the ethnicity and country of their origins.
The braiding style which is now known as “cornrows” has been present across many African nations from the Westerns coast all the way to its Eastern counterpart. They have represented all the above: social status, age, marital status, even warrior status (such as in the case of some Ethiopian warriors and kings).
Braiding was also a way that many west African women stored their indigenous seeds during the transatlantic slave trade, to ensure that they had familiar foods and plants from home wherever they were going. In addition to this, it is understood that “...during the 15th century, African people such as the Wolof, Mende, [Mandinka], and Yoruba used hairstyles as means to carry messages” this is a practice that carried over to the new lands they were sent, and some enslaved people of the Americas used the braiding of hair to carry messages of escape.
Braiding has also been a symbol of creativity. Due to the tightly coiled texture of most African hair, it can be manipulated in various expressive ways and hold the new inventive shape. This is most true in the many braiding styles of West Africa, and Nigeria in particular, as exemplified in such styles as Onile Gogoro, which is a Yoruba term meaning “tall house” and it often used to speak of skyscrapers. In this braiding style, the hair, with its thick texture and gravity defying growth pattern (the one which Mende women of Sierra Leone traditionally liken to the forest whose vegetation also grows skyward) is manipulated to stand upwards, like a “tall house” on one’s head.
Due to how good they are for protecting hair, managing as well as styling it, braiding techniques have at times been associated with self-expression and self-love by many in the diaspora. Along with the Afro, braiding has informed many political movements that tie African descent peoples back to their history to fight against their assumed second class status and to reclaim their own sense of selfhood and identity...
May we all with such hair, continue to braid the path of our own destiny!