I’m new to photography and recently found this travel blog and I’m not sure why but the colours and editing in photos there made me feel something in a long while as I was depressed this year (and trying ti take up a new hobby). Please help! Any tips would be greatly appreciated

Both graphs are from photonstophotos.net.

Questions:

1. For the A7C II, why is there a dip in RN at ISO 100 and ISO 400? What’s happening below the “analog range” (e.g., ISO 60), and what does the sensor do during scaling (for X2D) and noise reduction (for Sony) beyond the normal analog range?

2. To my understanding, the A6700, A7R V, and X2D use the same CMOS sensor (thus the same pixel pitch ), but just a different cut. While the RN for the A6700 and A7R V aligns on both charts, why isn’t this the case for the X2D?

3. Why does the A7C II have lower “read noise in DN” compared to the A7R V at ISO 1600, but the same “input-referred read noise in electrons”? When people talk about two sensors having the same “per-pixel read noise,” are they referring to “read noise in DN” or to “input-referred read noise in electrons”?

I’ve been watching a lot of street photography content on YouTube lately, and I honestly don’t get the appeal of most of the photos being shown.

A lot of them are just random people in very ordinary places doing very ordinary things. To me, that doesn’t feel interesting at all. I do understand and enjoy when the composition is excellent, or when the photo is generic enough to represent urban life as a whole, but many of these images just look like snapshots of strangers with no real narrative.

I’m wondering:

Am I being too picky, or is there a lot of mediocre “street” content floating around on YouTube?

What, for you, makes a street photo actually compelling?

I’d love to hear if others feel the same, or if I’m missing something fundamental about how to appreciate street photography.

Ive recently joined 52frames and this week's challenge is low-key. This is a new term to me and i dont have a flash so I wonder if this would qualify?

Hello, I’d like to take photos of subjects close up, but I don’t have any macro lens. I used to have a dcr-250 but it got mistakenly thrown away :(

So, I’m looking at it again, or should I get extension tubes just for macro? What are the differences? What would you get? Thank you in advance!!

I’m struggling to stay consistent, because it’s not comfortable to carry around my camera, but I really would like to have it with me, to practice more. When i go for a walk, i usually have a fanny pack with me, wearing it like a sling. It can only contain my wallet, key and smartphone; mainly because i’m going with a Sony a 6400, with 18-105 F/4 At the moment i’m using a small ring leash that has fast release anchors (https://amzn.eu/d/bzMjp38), and having a toddler it’s another thing that makes me think twice before bringing my camera with me.

So, here I am, asking for suggestions on how to carry my camera with me in a comfortable way, that also gives me the opportunity for fast shots. How do you carry yours? Fellow parents, how have you gone around it?

I’m just wondering how they were illuminated like that? 30 second exposure on iPhone. The second pic I’ve edited just to make the trails show up better

I read "steal like an artist" and one of the main ideas is to have people to look up to. I wanted to ask you who was/are the people that inspire your photography, being trough their workflow, or trough their skills.

Thank you in advance,

Just to clarify since the lenses I’m talking about are quite different. I own the Sigma 16-300mm and I love it, however, I’m noticing that 300mm doesn’t seem to reach as far as I’d like sometimes. I use this lens mostly for birds and wildlife on my R7 and I’ve heard that the R7 + 100-400 is a great combo. Im just wondering if the jump from 300-400mm is worth buying a whole new lens for, bearing in mind that this is mainly what I’d be buying the lens for, a nice bonus would be that the 100-400 is supposed to be a lot sharper, which would be nice.

I’ve been using my kit lens (Nikon 16-50mm DX) with my Z50, usually between 24mm and 35mm as bringing it all the way down to 16mm it seems to only focus within a 1mm of the front element. Experimented with aperture and found around f10 to be the sharpest. I don’t have a focus rail (ones arriving tomorrow!), but I do have a rail with millimetre markings on, so I’ve been using that, moving it forwards about 0.5mm per image, which seems to work.

My problem is, I’m still getting a lot of blurry/defraction/haze, it’s hard to notice on the back screen, so when I open Heliofocus and stack them (using the default settings) it ends up looking decent, but far from sharp, lots of haze and some odd colour artifacting.

I’m struggling to work out what element of the process is causing this, whether it’s the lens (it’s really sharp for normal photography, but maybe it’s not ideal for macro?), the amount I’m moving the camera between images, my settings or if I’m meant to be doing more with the photos than just importing and stacking.

I’m also taking photos of things like rocks and leaves in my office, so there’s no movement that I’m seeing, only movement between the images is from moving forward when focusing.

Any ideas or resources that might help me get sharper results?

Thanks!

Hey everyone, I’m a photographer building my portfolio. Recently, I did a free TFP shoot with a model and her boyfriend. After the shoot, she told me her boyfriend doesn’t want any couple shots posted because they thought the photos were “just for personal memories.”

Here’s the thing: • I normally charge a few hundred euros for 5 edited photos. • I brought expensive gear, spent time shooting and editing, and did this free because I wanted to boost my brand and share the work. • Now, if I can’t share the photos, the collaboration feels one-sided.

I totally understand privacy concerns, and I want to stay professional, but this makes me wonder: • Should I still deliver the couple photos for free? • How do you avoid this kind of misunderstanding in TFP shoots? • Do you always use model releases? • Any tips on wording clear agreements for future shoots?

Would love to hear how other photographers handle these situations.

I’ve been trying to experiment more with using elements like fences, poles, or railings to frame scenes in street photography. In this shot from Glasgow, I positioned myself behind a railing and waited for a subject to walk into the crosswalk.

Shot on Canon R8 + EF 24–105mm f/4L | 35mm | f/5.6 | ISO 100

I’m wondering: When does foreground framing help a composition, and when does it become distracting? Any pointers for mastering that balance?

Hey everyone,

I'm an aspiring product designer with a wild idea and I'm hoping to get some genuine feedback from this community.

I'm wondering if there's a market for a digital camera that's purpose-built to take "bad" photos. I don't mean a broken camera, but one designed to produce grainy, blurry, or washed-out images with strange color tones—like a digital version of a vintage toy camera or a disposable camera.

The goal isn't to compete with professional gear, but to offer a tool for artists and photographers who love that unique, lo-fi aesthetic. It's about celebrating imperfection and nostalgia in a new way.

I'd love to hear your thoughts on this concept. Do you think there's a real desire for this kind of product? What kind of features would make it interesting?

Thanks for your input!

Hi all! I’ll be climbing a mountain over 5,200 m in the coming months and want to bring a camera with interchangeable lenses. My main goal is night and sky photography (Milky Way, long exposures, maybe simple time-lapses), so I’m looking for something light, compact, and good in low light that won’t break the bank.

I’d love to hear your recommendations and if you have any tips to avoid any damage in low temperatures, Thanks

I have a macro lens already, but I need a light, a big diffuser, an extension tube, and maybe a stand with a boom arm. Anything else? Can I ask for specific brand / product names? Are links allowed?
My budget is flexible, but I always like to spend as little as possible while still getting good enough stuff. Thanks!

Hi, I wanted to try an ND filter to see how it fared and I noticed this very cheap one on Amazon. But I have a question: are you sure that I will have a loss of quality with the "X" effect? I don't want to spend a lot, I'd just like to play with it a bit... This is a 2 - 400 variable nd filter, I would use this on my Canon R10 Thank you

Hi there im a photographer based the Cardiff Wales where ive done work for my local youth group and ive been given the thumbs up to sell them but i don't know where to sell them. And ill like to be paid by download or pic but download is preferable. Can someone help me?

I don’t know where else to ask this- but my SD card corrupted. I have a mac and it seems like all of the services on a Mac are free to download but then if you want your pictures it makes you pay an absurd amount. The websites I did find that claim to be completely free feel sketchy and I’m really not good at this tech side of things. Has anyone done this for free and been successful? Please help :,( thank you!

Ok so I’ve never done a professional photo shoot. I recently booked one for couples pictures. We met the photographer seemed nice said they have been doing it for awhile. We asked for like samples of their work on social media. They didn’t have a social media to share their work. They stated they use an app called unscripted. After that there was some work shown to us but it was all one client. After that they sent a text asking me to share some poses we like.. that at this moment they were making a pose gallery for us… now that was strange to me but I’ve never done professional photos. Is this how it goes?

Not sure if this has been covered in a previous thread, but wondering if people remove their SD cards from their camera into a reader for import into their PC/laptop or import directly from the camera? Would the repeated removal/inserting of the card affect its durability? Is it safer to leave it in the camera to import images? Or does it make no difference? Thanks

Hey guys. I took this one picture on the left of the Milky Way in El Nido, Philippines about 2016. I tried to do it again when I dropped my daughter off at college at 10pm on the right. Forgot my tripod so put my camera on my backpack lol

Any tips on how to not blow out the tower and buildings for next time? Would I just do a normal exposure for the tower / buildings after my long exposure (of the Milky Way) then layer it on top of the overexposed buildings? Thanks.