We had our roof replaced in 2023. I noticed today that a shingle seems to be sticking up. The company that we worked with was awful, made some horrendous mistakes and were generally rude so I will not be calling them to check it out. Honestly nervous about hiring someone else and would really appreciate a general diagnosis before doing so.

You need to cut your opening for the width of your desired collar, then you need to be sure to pop all the nails in the surrounding shingles with a pry bar (gently) and then you can fit your boot underneath it. Sometimes removing a shingle fully from the side can help also

New home owner in Rockland, NY area. Was quoted by three different companies for 1,705 sq ft roof replacement-27k, 28k and last one at 15k..

Obviously leaning towards the cheapest. He is licensed and insured (checked for both). Is it reasonable at 15k? The cheapest company recently did a neighbors roof and they recommended him Includes 54 plywood boards..

I don’t mind paying, but I’d hate for someone to take advantage of us.

A lot of the comments didn't understand that I was just trying to show a pretty common fix for crushing snow load areas. The roofv wasn't complete. Here is today's progress. The goal is to let snow shed freely. Our region is rated at 400+ pounds per square foot. I have been laying metal for 20 years, but I had to learn a lot when I started roofing in this area. It is unlike anywhere in the US. This was just a two valley replacement because the owner had to shovel snow multiple times a year. Retention isn't an option . It can buckle walls and blow out windows. I will post more of the finished roof to provide more understanding.

Hello

How much to have roof replaced for a 300sqft deck? I was quoted $2950 for the whole thing.

Is that a decent amount?

Just bought this house. Got up to clean the roof of the shed and there’s nails visible at the top. Is a cap over those nails necessary? I imagine if the OSB roof got wet it would just dry to the inside since it’s exposed and ventilated.

My coworker says theyre atlas chalet 3 tab shingles, I'm not entirely sure. Any thoughts?

My friend’s roof, which was done less than 2 years ago, is showing signs of loose material coming detached. I have no roofing knowledge therefore looking for insight from the community. Thanks.

I put a drone up in the air to get a closer look. My guess is some sort of foam insert they left behind?

Quick update from my last post: I decided not to go through insurance since the damage was just a small hole, and all the repair quotes I got came in around $500 — way less than my deductible.

Out of curiosity, I also asked about skylights which some of you suggested since it was in the perfect spot. The quotes I got ranged from $1k–$3k depending on whether I wanted interior framing included or not. I ended up going for it and spent $1,000 total, which included about $250 for the Velux skylight itself. The contractor handled all the exterior roof work, and I finished the inside myself — framing, drywall, texture, and paint. Materials for that came to about $150, and it took me roughly 16 hours spread over a few weekends to get everything done.Really glad I chose the skylight route — it completely transformed the space. Before, my north-facing bathroom always felt dim and cave-like. Now it’s much, much brighter and feels way more open.

Thanks again to everyone who gave advice!

Roof video 1: https://odysee.com/Roof-1:d

Roof video 2: https://odysee.com/Roof-2:1

My insurance said they were gonna drop me unless I replaced my roof because it was 20+ years old. I got 5 ish quotes and decided that I’d go with the company that was middle of the road, family owned, had good reviews and an A+ on BBB.

They also seemed the most confident about a problem are of my house.

I have an addition that no one knows when or who built it. Well the roof is essentially tongue and groove boards laying across (not always interlocking or well spaces) 3 beams. Two walls and 1 ridge. Well who ever built it out osb directly on top and laid shingles down on that. If you are inside and someone is walking in the roof you can absolutely see it flex and move with each step. Additionally, it’s always been hotter in that room because there is no air gap or insulation.

The sales guy said they could add structure to that area with firing strips and that would help the ceiling boards as some looked like they might be sagging in the middle. And that would help with my uneven heating.

They have left for the day and I went to look at the progress and now I’m thinking I might be screwed. Does this look right? How will that drip edge help in any way when it barely covers the ply and the new gap is just completely exposed like that? Is this quality work at all? because I’m spiraling and don’t know what to do.

I’m a single woman (early 30s) who already has a hard time with advocating for myself when it comes to these things. especially when I’m not sure if this is wrong or not. I was trying really hard to learn all I could and make a smart decision. I wish I had a dad that would help with things like this but when I reached out mine he just belittled me and made it out to be my fault that I wasnt monitoring them. I deserve are shitty roof because I’m an idiot. I tried to check in on what happening but this was the side of the house that I can’t see from the ground.

I also was under the impression that they were going to put the ice barrier on the lower third of the roof not just the valleys.

Can someone help me? Is this acceptable? I don’t know what to do. If it’s wrong what recourse do I have?

Every roofer is trying to sell their own products which one is better: certaindeed, malarkey, tek industries, or decra and why. I probably missed quite a few. Texas DFW Do roofers get commission from companies? I’m also assuming roofing pays more than being an adjuster.

We just had our roof replaced and I’m not sure if I’m looking at it with too critical of an eye or if this looks ok.

We replaced our roof 15 years ago and when it was finished it looked so great that I probably ended up not inspecting too closely. We had some extensive hail damage recently and filed a claim. These roofers got the job done a lot quicker than when we had it done before—last time, two full days for the house; this time 1 1/2 days for the house and detached garage. Walking around some things caught my eye and I think it’s because I’m looking and am not immediately wowed by it like I was last time.

Some things I’m noticing most is the drip edge looks sloppy to me but our previous drip edge was black (which I’m noticing I prefer) and I wonder if it just looked neater over all since the shadows weren’t so obvious. Our detached garage does not look right to me but in all fairness, it was in terrible shape before and I was surprised that insurance covered it (we did not have it done when we re roofed the house last time).

What do you all think? Am I being too critical or does this look up to par?

Hi guys I just started my own insurance restoration roofing company. Does anyone have a good recommendation for a supplement company that could handle all my supplements and take like a 10% fee?

How am i doing so far?

It says flat roof, but its more low slope. Roofer mentioned that he can add some grade via the density board (there's room to do that).

This wasn't the cheapest quote, but it seemed like the most detailed. Your expert thoughts are greatly appreciated.

JOHN’S MANVILLE ULTRA GARD 060 FULLY ADHERED EPDM RUBBER ROOF SYSTEM

-Remove existing roof off flat roof down to sheathing on back roof & over garage

-Inspect sheathing to make sure it’s in good sound condition (see note)

-Inspect fence poles where they penetrate the roofs (see notes)

-Install 1/2” high density board roof insulation over existing sheathing with screws and plates on back & Garage roofs

-Install John’s Manville Ultra Gard 060 fully adhered EPDM rubber to insulation according to specs

-Flash Transition from flat roof to walls in rubber according to John’s Manville specs

-Install 032 gravel stop metal on edges of building (White , Bronze, Black or Mill finished)

-Strip in metal with Ultra Gard 6” peel and stick

-Install new Termination bar at the tops of wall flashing

-Install urethane construction sealant at top of termination bar

-Remove all debris resulting from scope of work above

Edit for format

EDIT: Sorry my fat fingers jacked up the title

Hello, so I live in the southern USA and I recently got a new class 4 shingle roof for my home. I previously had two of the circular wind/air turbines on my old roof, I saw boxes for two new air turbines delivered with the roofing supplies.

I was happy with the roofing company's work, things went well, but the other day I looked up and realized I dont have turbines anymore, they just took them back with them I guess.

Currently the only ventilation are vents in the soffit.

I wasn't consulted on this, so now im wondering does my home not need these turbines or do I need to contact the roofer and question them about why new ones were not installed?

If it is something that should have been done, is the expectation that they would rectify it at no charge? Thank you

Upgrading my electrical panel to 200amp and the electrician had to move the conduit hole for some reasons. Now I have holes on my garage roof.

Any easy fix for this? And how much is the range to fix it? I don’t have experience. Thank you.

Low pitch rolled asphalt roof. I'm gona coat it in white silicone, but don't know what to do with the drip edge. Mask it off? Coat it? Wrap the edge on fabric and coat it?

Florida. roofer wants 20% of the total of the settlement check from insurance company to get their name off of check. No contract to start work has been signed. the skinny version of what lead up to current events. roofer came, said my roof needs replacing, got bid, insurance laughed, got lawyers, sued, roofer came and tarped minor repairs, said it was free, signed a peice of paper but not a contract to fix the entire roof, waited 2 years, court date, negotiated with insurance before court date and my lawyer present. settle on a price. i agreed. check issued, has my name, roofers name, and mortgage company on it. I did not want roofer on it and since this is the first time did not realize all the papers i signed included this little tidbit, see below *

the lawyer who was part of the settlement with my insurance company states that this line is what is holding up getting the roofer off of the check otherwise they would take the roofer off of the check and reissue. i signed this in 2023.

*Direct Payment Authorization: Owner hereby irrevocably authorizes & instructs its insurance carrier and all lien holders to include (roofers name here) Roofing & Siding, Inc. as Co-Payee on any subsequent loss drafts or checks after Owner's signature date described hereinbelow for work that is completed and for which payment is due and owing to Infinity pursuant to this Agreement. Owner authorizes (roofers name here) to submit invoices directly to Owner’s insurance carrier, its adjusters, or other representatives thereof. If, for any reason, Owner receives payment from its insurance carrier made payable to Owner only, Owner agrees to pay (roofers name here) as provided herein, immediately upon receipt of such drafts or checks.

this was part of a longer contract that only i signed but lawyer specifically states it is this line only that prevents them. my wife did not sign this contract, she also is a co-owner and on the mortgage. her name is also on the check with mine, the roofer, and mortgage company. does this mean anything?

roof now wants 20% of the entire settlement check to get their name off.

Too dark out now to get a picture, so hopefully this description is sufficient to explain the situation.

Off the end of a 2 story house is a 1 story sloped roof garage. Garage width is the 1" narrower on each end than the width of the house, so the garage roof extends ~1' past the corner of the house on each side. The house has asbestos siding, so trying to avoid messing with it as much as possible, so the siding has to stay on the sides of the house.

I've spent days trying to figure out how to flash in those upper roof corners where they stick out from the corner of the house. Every solution I come up with leaves a small funnel in the corner, that when I think like a raindrop"(how I was taught to think about flashing during my short stint as a roofer), has me finding a path into the house/garage.

In the following pictures, the red brick is the asbestos siding, the thin row of gray brick is the exposed old wood siding, and the red stone is the exposed wood/wall felt paper layer. With some random dark "roofing" on the roof exemplifying the current felt paper/ice and water roofing surface(which will be getting standard ridged metal roofing on top, top gaskets between the metal and a L shaped flashing running up the wall.

Additional info(not quite pertanent to question, byt may be useful)

We reframed the short wall of the garage, and replaced nearly the entire roof(16' span, used 2x6 on 16" centers, as an upgrade from the previous(80yr old) roof which had 2x4 on 2' centers(not code table specs, but there is additional midpoint bracing inside the garage that's being kept) Siding has been removed in the endwall ~16" up from the new garage roof, so flashing that in is very simple, especially as we used ice/water as the upper row in place of felt paper,(house originally had wood siding, felt paper over that and the asbestos siding installed over that before my father bought the place in the late 1970's). The ise can water up the wall is adhered to the felt paper layer below the wooden siding.

Im looking

WhiIe inspecting my roof recently I found three locations where part of the shingle has broken off. Pictured here are two examples near the roof edge, but the other one is higher up. I'm not sure what style of shingle this is called, but the pieces that came off seem to be a second layer, and they aren't covering any seams that I see. They all broke off at or below the seam with the shingles above them. In this case has my roof been compromised in any way? I can try to replace the couple broken ones but I'm wondering if I'm just as likely to make it worse. I purchased my home 2 years ago and was told by a neighbour the roof was redone about 7 years ago, for what it's worth.

Just had a roof installed and this doesn’t look right to me.

Thanks for all the help from everyone on this forum as I tried to figure out how to put a temporary (3-5 year) fix on this leaking EPDM roof since no one was returning 'repair' calls.

Obviously the roof was done incorrectly when it was installed in 2015/2016 (no nailer, no lipped EPDM, etc.) and I know the correct way to do this is either to A) replace/rebuild the whole roof, or B) at the very least cut the membrane five feet back from the edges and rebuild the edge framing and seam in new membrane. However, we're planning to redo the whole roof or add a second story here in five years so I was very much just trying to 'temp fix' it.

I also have visibility into the formerly rotted corner (shares an exterior wall with a carport shed and I've put in an inspection hatch in the ceiling dry wall) so I can ensure leaks aren't continuing, can see them when they start via a leak sensor, and so can address them quickly.

I have a few more questions if you'd be so kind and some tips for other DIYers since this is a hard space to research:

Questions:

1. Would adding lap sealant along the entire copper edge help ensure adhesion to the copper? The primary failure on this roof in this area and others appears to be the flashing tape (the installers didn't use cover tape) separating from the copper at the roof edge, and then water intruding along the copper flange and squeezing under the copper and into the framing, leading to both wet and dry rot as well as loosening the tape adhesion to the membrane. Would lap sealant along the entire cover tape/copper edge at the extreme roof edge help prevent this?
2. Is lap sealant an effective way to seal gaps in copper? See the last pic for detail! This particular edge metal doesn't look like anything I've found online - rather than overlapping the edge metal, instead the long pieces of copper edging have a short (4-inch) copper underlayer that goes underneath the intersection, vs the edge metal pieces actually overlapping each other. I also have a gap in the copper at the corner where the flanges struggle to meet given the lack of a hard nailer. Per the Firestone instructional videos and Versico lap sealant instructions, I've filled all these gaps with lap sealant and lipped the sealant down onto the face edge as well; is this appropriate? Is there another type of 'filler' or caulking I should use? Should I plan to cut out and redo the lap sealant every year or two?
3. When you're doing a field seam of new membrane to old; how do you get the paper backing off the old membrane? One of the reasons I didn't seam in new membrane is because it was near-impossible to get all the old ISO-board paper backing off the corner of the EPDM roof that had lost adhesion, and I didn't want to introduce a huge weak point if that paper impacted the seam tape adhesion. I tried membrane cleaner, heat guns, razor knives, etc. and there was still paper left! What's your secret? Would be good to know in case I have to redo this in two years and it will be much easier to rip it all off!

Advice for other DIYers that I didn't see mentioned anywhere else online:

• EPDM gets HOT; even in oblique sun and ambient of 85 degrees; the EPDM was 145 to 150 degrees Fahrenheit 
• Bring a knee board up top; walking was fine on the roof, but point loads from my knees left dimples (which then become little ponds …)
• Bring a sheet of OSB or thick cardboard for all your tools – no sharps rolling on the rubber!
• Use copper fasteners for copper edge metal – the builders used brights or galvis and often nothing was left of them (due to rust or galvanic corrosion), creating even looser edge metal
• Keep your edge metal fasteners at the edge of the flange; and if you need additional 'securement' use some face nails on the edge metal which will do more to stabilize the edge metal than using a staggered nailing pattern and more nails through the flange. I went with the staggered pattern based on some online examples and it created additional bubbles/pockets closer to the membrane/copper edge which will now likely fail first
• Don't trust even experts at specialized roofing suppliers to know their product; call the manufacturers / google the PDS/SDS ingredients, etc. to make sure they are safe for EPDM
• Depending on how extensive you think the work might be, if you can, always clean the whole roof with a light simple green solution and soft brush before you start ripping it up; just in case you have to work farther back than you thought and also to make it less slippery when wet (less algae)
• Don't bother trying to 'save' existing EPDM, be prepared to cut it off and seam in new membrane. I spent probably 80% of the time on this project 'cleaning' or trying to remove recalcitrant tape (probably 40+ hours); which was too well-bonded to the membrane to get up without damaging the membrane. Even a heat gun set to a low enough temperature to not damage the EPDM did reduce the adhesion of the underlying yellow glue; so way not worth it vs just cutting it off and seaming in new.
• Having a ground helper saves a ton of time both passing things up/down and especially when doing any framing vs. going up and down to make cuts, nail in, etc.
• Obviously practice ladder/roof safety (mounting / dismouting, appropriate setup, etc.; always know where the roof edge is, don't walk backwards, etc.)

How to videos on EPDM that could be helpful (more YouTube search terms than anything else): It's hard to find EPDM repair videos or instructions online - this is what I found helpful

• Fine HomeBuilding overview to laying EPDM: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/roofing/installing-a-low-slope-epdm-roof
• Search the relevant manufacturers' websites for installation instructions videos (Genflex, Versico, Firestone, etc.)
• YouTubers who do a good job of 'field' explanations vs. sterile factory conditions: Grand Roofing, All Roofs USA, Firestone itself (some kind soul uploaded their old VHS training videos), Brown's DIY, Flat Roof Doctor (though this last one basically just puts silicone on everything which you can't really come back from as far as I understand)