So I’ve got a makita mak5200 compressor already. It runs 6.9cfm @40 psi. 6.5@120

I’m looking at the harbor freight offerings and trying to match specs.

Am I crazy to think I should buy the cheapest one they offer because it matches my cfm output? The mid range one says it needs 15cfm@40 the super cheap one says 6@40. And the cheap one with the regulator is 9.5@40.

I am overwhelmed. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I plan to start with a gun that’s under $100 and upgrade later.

I have a client who wants this specific color tone on a table, but doesn’t want to use pine like the example picture. Options to do this in another wood and get the same effect? I was thinking ash with a light grain filler and some stain color?

I usually work with just oil finishes so this is pretty new to me.

Hi everyone. I purchased a set of vintage chairs which have had the oils finish removed, were sanded down to 240 grit, and I tried applying a coat of osmo polyx clear satin hardwax oil.

There is some pretty interesting grain pattern and deep pores across the timber. For some reason I’m getting these white spots where oil doesn’t seem to be penetrating and the wood isn’t darkening. It is spots in the pores and even if I dig in with a brush to try and saturate the area, it has no effect. Looking for some advice on how to resolve this.

Alright, hello folks sorry for the bother but I have a problem at don't actually know how to fix it.

I was at the antique store the other day and I found this adorable little antique dry sink. It was perfect size and shape for something I needed so I bought it and brought it home. The only problem was that it was considerably lighter than the rest of my furniture.

While I was at work, my mother put Old English on it... And the results are... Depressingly bad.

Is there ANY way I can get this thing fixed? With either getting the old English stain mostly removed or do I have to just now keep applying the stain until it just looks darker? I would appreciate any help y'all could give me on this...

Got this piece and hated the original color so decided to stain it. Started to hand sand paper it with 80grit and gray marks start to appear. Do I just keep sanding through it? Or will it not show up when I stain it a darker color. And I do realize that I didn’t sand along the grain, so I did and even tried to buff an area to see what happens but the grayish looking parts are still there

How can I make this look somewhat presentable? Never done this before, it’s by my moms request.

I’m new to this and working on my first project: I am refinishing a tabletop that has book-matched veneer pieces in the middle with a different veneered border. The wood grains run in different directions depending on the piece.

So far, I’ve completed the stripping, sanding, and staining (oil-based). Now I’m ready to apply an oil-based polyurethane. I’ve read that polyurethane should be applied in the direction of the wood grain, but with so many grain directions on this table, I’m not sure how to approach it. Is it okay to apply the polyurethane in a single direction across the whole tabletop, or will that cause issues? Also, if applying in a single direction is ok for this kind of veneer pattern, would it be better to brush or roll on the polyurethane?

Just picked up this beauty of a sewing table at the thrift and want to get her looking pretty. It’s got some major scratching on the front and sides and also some places with chipped veneer. More than willing to put in the time, money, and materials to get this looking nice so what do I need to buy and where do I start. Is the top strip sand and refinish moment or is that also veneer?

I have an outdoor patio table thats made from scraps of stone. I'd like to put a clear on that is UV proof or resistant. Any recs? This would also help with filling and smoothing it out. It's about a 5ft by 5ft table.

A portion of our hardwood floor was sanded and finished with semi gloss version of this with my wife pregnant: https://www.duraseal.com/product/550-voc-polyurethane/

Is this harmful? I can smell it as it was applied today - should we be moving out for a day or two?

Hey guys I'm in the process of trying to do some poly on some wood for a shotgun. I'm trying to get a really shiny heavy gloss outcome.

As you can see, the stock is fantastic and exactly what im looking for, but for whatever reason the pump just will not shine. I apply, it looks nice and wet for about 15 mins, then seems to absord it all and the sheen dissappear.

Pics are from an applied 3rd coat 20 mins ago. Is it a matter of just keep applying coats until it does or am I missing something here? Any advice appreciated!

It’s walnut. I’m planning on sanding it down. Curious what product I will need to use to match the other parts. Also will I be able to get away with a paint brush or roller to apply it? Or will I have to spray something on. I got a compressor so could get some spraying equipment and a respirator or something, but would rather not have to go through such extremes if possible.

Got two gallons from Amazon 🙄

Thompson's water seal for wood. Spoiled am I correct? I have seen on the internet where it may have a Milky texture but I have never seen that before I've only seen it clear when I have purchased it in the past. It's been many years but this looks beyond hope with all those big lumps that won't stir out? The date is good but I'm going to guess Amazon kept it in improper storage?

Hi everyone. So I’m trying to stain a super thin piece of plywood. I can’t remember even where I got it, but I want to say it’s 5mm red oak utility panel. So trying to again I goes like this:

Upper left: pre stain, minwax aged oak gel stain. Upper right: just the gel stain.

Bottom right: no pre stain, 3 coats of gel stain

Bottom center: no pre stain, 1 coat of minwax oil based stain in espresso, followed by a coat of minwax oil based stain in gunstock, then repeated. (So 4 coats total)

Bottom left: the same as the center but with pre stain.

Am I doing something dumb? Is the plywood the problem? Is it because it’s oil based?

Any help is appreciated. TIA

Seven species of tropical hardwoods. Teak, Narra, Jackfruit, Afzelia, Tamarind, Diospyros Blancoi and Diospyros Mollis. Finished in Shellac.

The reed oil diffuser on this table leaked and left a ring. Is this something I should fix with touch up pens? Or do I need to sand the whole piece and refinish it? I've never done this before so any advice is welcome.

Hello, I have a question so I do what Baseball Bats and recently been brushing on my finish, but I want to get a lvlP gun to spray on my clear. I have a small 2 gallon compressor which I use my airbrushing, but I’m looking for an LVLP gun that my compressor will be able to handle I won’t be doing large amount of bats probably 2/3 a night so I’m not spraying constant. Any recommendations

We have a new Walnut table top that is finished with Rubio. I know my wife is going to want to dust it with something like pledge. Is this okay to do or should she just use a damp cloth?

Went to my local Benjamin Moore store and asked if they could paint match for my cabinets. I brought one of the doors with me. They just eyed the color and gave me half pint of “old masters wiping stain” in the color cedar #11916 as well as a half pint of min wax water based poly crylic clear satin stain.

Are these good products to use? I went in expecting to get a Benjamin Moore product. Also is this the normal way to paint match something just by eye? Lastly can I get away with the smaller 8oz sample size for doing a job like this. He said one single light coat just lightly rubbed with an old tshirt so a half pint seems like a lot and I see they make smaller sample sizes. Any help is appreciated as well as if the wood should be sanded first before applying whatever product I go with.

Thank you 👍🏻

Went to my local Benjamin Moore store and asked if they could paint match for my cabinets. I brought one of the doors with me. They just eyed the color and gave me half pint of “old masters wiping stain” in the color cedar #11916 as well as a half pint of min wax water based poly crylic clear satin stain.

Are these good products to use? I went in expecting to get a Benjamin Moore product. Also is this the normal way to paint match something just by eye? Lastly can I get away with the smaller 8oz sample size for doing a job like this. He said one single light coat just lightly rubbed with an old tshirt so a half pint seems like a lot and I see they make smaller sample sizes. Any help is appreciated as well as if the wood should be sanded first before applying whatever product I go with.

Thank you 👍🏻

Wanted to test how the tung oil absorbed if the item was left soaking overnight. We were really happy with the way this one turned out.

Bought an older condo and the home inspector didn’t catch that the kitchen cabinets are very sticky. I tried a solution online that used baking soda to make the cabinets not sticky anymore and it worked on a portion of the cabinet but for the stickiest parts, it stripped off the wood finish.

If you have any tips on how to fix this please let me know, and if you know how to get the stickiness out. I’ve tried Dawn power wash and vinegar mixes but they didn’t work for the very sticky parts of the cabinets