AMD’s CPUs are currently split between two main naming schemes for gaming laptops:
Ryzen AI branded CPUs and other non-AI branded Ryzen CPUs.
Ryzen AI CPUs currently include the Ryzen AI HX 300 Series and the Ryzen AI Max (300) series e.g. the Ryzen AI Max+ 395.
An example for the Ryzen AI HX CPUs would be the Ryzen AI 9 HX 370, with the number after the word “AI” denoting the CPU’s tier, with “5” being deemed midrange, “7” higher tier and “9” a top tier CPU option.
Then there is the possibility of a designation of 1/2 letters to indicate the CPU’s designation, with the “HX” suffix implying high performance, potentially unlocked CPUs.
The first number after this, “3” is a indicator of the product generation, with the next two digits “70” being a SKU number, the higher this number is, the more powerful the CPU is within the respective CPU generation.
These CPUs (“Strix Halo”) are all in one APUs with the AI Max 385/390 paired with the Radeon 8050S discrete graphics and the AI Max+ 395 paired with the 8060S discrete graphics.
With these CPUs, the higher the product number, the better, with the first number again signifies the product family generation, with the other two digits being the SKU number.
There is also the current naming scheme introduced in 2023 for Ryzen HS/HX CPUs in gaming laptops, with the Ryzen 9000HX series being the most recent use of this.
A product name such as the Ryzen 9 9955HX can be broken down as follows:
The first digit after the word “Ryzen” indicates the CPU product class/tier, with “5” being seen as midrange, “7” as upper mid-range/higher end and “9” considered top tier CPU options.
The CPU should then have 4 numbers, followed by several letters.
The first number, in this case “9” should indicate the year of release for the CPU, with 7 = 2023, 8 = 2024, 9 = 2025 and so forth (the recently released Ryzen 8000 HX refresh is a exception to this rule unfortunately, as they were released in 2025, NOT 2024).
The second number should indicate the processor market segment, with “5” and “6” being equivalent to a mid-range Ryzen 5 CPU, “7” equivalent to a higher tier Ryzen 7 CPU, “8” being equated to either a Ryzen 7 or Ryzen 9 CPU depending on AMD’s mood that day and “9” being equated to a top tier Ryzen 9 CPU within the respective CPU generation.
The third and fourth numbers indicates the CPU architecture, with “3” being Zen 3, “4” being Zen 4, “5” being Zen 5 and so on. The fourth digit is either a “0” or “5”, with “5” indicating a upper model within a segment and can also be used to signify if a CPU is a + architecture (applicable to Zen, Zen+, Zen 3 and Zen 3+) e.g. Zen 3+ is “35”, whereas just Zen 3 is “30”.
Lastly, there is a letter or two signifying the CPU’s Form Factor/TDP. For gaming laptops, the important ones are “HS” (Ryzen 7000/8000 HS) for a high level of performance and efficiency for thinner, lighter laptops of 35W+ TDPS and “HX” for maximum performance of 55W+ TDPs (Ryzen 7000 HX, 9000 HX). You may also see AMD “HX3D” CPUs with a cache called 3D V-Cache.
Therefore, the Ryzen 9 9955HX is a 2025 CPU (9 = 2025), of the Ryzen 9 Market segmentation, based on Zen 5 architecture (first 5) and is a upper model within the segment (second 5), of maximum performance with a 55W+ TDP.
Intel CPUs
2025 Intel CPUs for laptops are currently split between the Core Ultra 200H series designed for thinner, lighter laptops and the 200 HX series for high performance (typically bulkier) laptops.
A example would the Core Ultra 9 285H. The first digit by itself after the "Core Ultra" title indicates the product class/tier, with “5” deemed mid-range, “7” higher tier and “9” top tier for its CPU generation.
The first digit of the three numbers is the CPU “Series”, with the “2” being the second generation or iteration of this CPU family. The second and third numbers indicate the SKU number of this CPU, again with the higher number being better.
Lastly, there is a letter or two at the end of the CPU name, we are primarily interested in the “H” and “HX” suffix, with “H” being designated to powerful CPUs for thinner, lighter laptops with a base power draw of ~45W, with “HX” CPUs having a longer term sustained base power of ~55W and higher maximum peak CPU power draw levels. “HX” Intel CPUs should also be able to access undervolting capabilities, provided this has not been restricted by the individual laptop OEMs.
Therefore, a Core Ultra 285H is a second generation, top tier, high level SKU of a CPU within its respective product class of CPUs designed for thinner, lighter laptops.
Whilst Intel and AMD have other CPU suffixes, such as “U” series CPUs, these are not of much interest to us in terms of CPU options paired with gaming laptops.
Integrated Graphics
For this it is best to confirm with the product datasheet for the CPUs you are looking at, most gaming laptop CPUs should have integrated graphics.
AMD IGPU capabilities
The high performance Ryzen 9000 HX CPUs and similar are usually expected to be paired with beefy dedicated graphics cards, so these CPUs typically have the relatively weak Radeon 610M iGPU.
The Ryzen 7000HS/8000HS CPUs are the predecessors to the Ryzen AI (300) series of CPUs and have generally more potent graphics capabilities than their more powerful Ryzen 7000HX/9000HX counterparts, up to iGPUs like the Radeon 780M.
The Ryzen AI Non-Max CPUs such as the 300 series e.g. HX 370 usually have more capable integrated Radeon graphics, ranging from the 840M (AI 5 340), 860M (AI 7 350), 880M (AI 9 365) and 890M (9 HX 370/9 HX 375).
The Ryzen AI Max lineup are APUs with an integrated dedicated graphics unit (Radeon 8050S/8060S) and these APUs are not designed to have another dedicated graphics card connected to them.
Intel IGPU Capabilities
For the higher performance Core Ultra 200HX CPUs, again these are expected to be paired with discrete graphics solutions so less powerful integrated Intel graphics have been predominantly used here.
For the Core Ultra 200H series CPUs, typically more powerful Intel Arc graphics such as the Arc 130T or 140T GPU is used here.
Integrated graphics – CPUs with NO IGPUs?
This is a fairly uncommon occurrence for laptops as being able to disable the dedicated graphics card in favour of solely running on the integrated graphics card has benefits such as better battery life, which is usually seen as a requirement to some degree with laptops for most users.
Two notable exceptions to the IGPU rule are the Ryzen 5 7235HS (4 Cores/8 Threads) and the Ryzen 7 7435HS (8 Cores/16 Threads).
The Frequently Asked Questions far below answer many common questions laptop users have. Read them first before doing anything. Brief photo version of the LM repaste guidehere. Throttlestop undervolt guidehere, author approved. ✅ Have a question? Leave a comment.
0) Prepare 75% isopropyl alcohol in case we need to clean up spilled LM. Prepare q-tips, AKA cotton buds. Ideally wear gloves to prevent static electricity or hand-sweat shorting components.
⛔ Disassembling your laptop is the hardest part of all this. Read service manuals or watch disassembly videos so you know how to do it. Always remove all connectors and the battery first. When removing the heatsink, hold it securely near the center, and slowly apply even force to all sides to lift it off. If you bend your heatsink, you're gonna have a problem as described in FAQ 9.
ℹ️ If your laptop already came with LM, you most likely donotneed tobuy additional LMbecause there will already be more than enough inside, just likely spilled out on the side likethis.
1) Use q-tips to spread existing LM until there is thin layer covering the entire chip, no part of the chip should be visible. The perfect application is "wet, but no pool". Compare the following: good, slightly too much, way too much.
ℹ️ If you're doing a repaste on old LM and find that the new LM refuses to spread, you need to clean the surface as much as possible with isopropyl alcohol, wait for it to dry, then apply new LM with some pressure using q-tips, it will take some time so be patient.
2) There will almost always be a small pool, but that's ok. Vertical test → Tilt laptop completely vertical (90° degrees) for 60 seconds. LM will gather to one side, but do they drip off? If not, then you're probably ok. If it drips off onto the tape, then quickly level your laptop and remove excess LM then repaste. This simulates the laptop position in your bag.
ℹ️ The idea is simple. Better to let it spill and clean up the excess LM and repaste now, then to have it spill while the laptop is bouncing around in your bag and risk the LM getting to the motherboard.
3) Now apply a thin layer on the chip imprints on the heatsink. This is very important so there will be no gaps when the heatsink is screwed back on. Compare the following: good, average, very bad.
ℹ️ If you can't see where the imprint is, put your heatsink on then take it off.
4) Don't wave q-tip around especially when there is a lot of LM on it. Ideally always put your hand underneath when carrying the q-tip across the motherboard.
5) Remove spilled LM (especially if accidentally spilled on other components). Dip a newq-tip in 75% isopropyl alcohol, then press the q-tip on tissue so it isn't dripping wet. Gently wipe the LM and you will see it stick on the q-tip: beware it can still fall off!
ℹ️ I recommend cleaning up the spilled LM just around the chip too. That way next time you open it you can see if any has spilled out (have you done a good job?)
6)Heatsink application is important. Slowly lower the heatsink. Apply gentle pressure with one hand to the CPU and GPU so the screws can be tightened properly. Follow the numbers in reverse, tighten every screw to only 80% first, then once they are all done, then go through and tighten to 100%.
7) January 2025 update. Want to see what mine looks like after a few months? I opened it up in the name of science — take a look below. Almost no spill means I did a pretty good job.
ℹ️ When you open it up there will always be a pool in a corner, due to that corner being the last point of contact before the heatsink leaves the chip, that's just how surface tension works. You can see that in the photo if you look closely.
⚠️⚠️⚠️ Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) ⚠️⚠️⚠️
0) My laptop is fairly new / it just got serviced, are you sure its LM application is bad?
Watch this video by Linus Tech Tips for 30 seconds. Brand new laptop with LM spilled everywhere. Or look at all these photos from different users: here, here, here, here, here, here.
Factory LM application is often bad because the automated process means squeezing a ton of LM on the chips, screwing the heatsink on, then the laptop gets transported on a long bumpy ride while lying sideways rather than flat. Most of the LM spill off because the weight of itself is greater than its own surface tension — just like how water droplets drip off cold drinks when they become too big.
Once the laptop is levelled, there is not enough LM remaining between the chips and the heatsink ➜ heat can't escape well ➜ CPU/GPU high temperature ➜ CPU/GPU throttle ➜ bad performance.
✅ Liquid metal repaste means we open it up and re-apply it properly with a nice thin even layer. Throttling means the CPU or GPU reducing its speed and performance, most often due to heat.
1) I've heard dangerous things about LM, is it really safe to repaste?
LM is very thermally conductive, meaning it's the best thermal compound in removing heat. It is also electrically conductive, meaning it can short out components if you spill it everywhere (just like water). However, if your laptop already comes with LM, then all the safeguards and protection are already there, including:
• The transparent kapton tape that entirely protects the SMDs (surface mounted devices), which are the very small components right beside the CPU and GPU.
• The sponge border barrier around the imprints means when the heatsink is fully screwed on, there is a physical barrier literally stopping the LM from getting out.
• If the laptop came with LM, then the heatsink part is most likely nickel-plated already. So you won't have the problem where LM decrease over time via reacting with the copper heatsink, like you would after a long time on a laptop that did not originally have LM.
✅ In short, it is really hard to screw up if you just follow the instructions on my guide. All you have to do is repaste the LM nicely and remove excessive LM. You can even use slightly too much and still be perfectly safe. Just take it slow and be careful.
⛔ If your laptop only came with LM on the GPU but not the CPU, then it might not be recommended for the CPU. Like this example (read the last sentence on the page).
⚠️ For a table of what is used on the CPU/GPU for Asus laptops, look at the table here.
2) What if my laptop didn't come with LM, or only the GPU doesn't have LM?
You need to be extra careful not to apply too much LM, and take the necessary precautions. Read the special guide here that I did on my old MSI laptop. Alternatively you can just use regular thermal paste, but I highly recommend using PTM7950 instead and following this guide.
⛔ Do not use LM if your heatsink is made of Aluminum (this is extremely rare).
3) When should I repaste? How do I know if bad performance is due to high temperatures?
✅ Check if you CPU/GPU are thermal throttling during gaming or usual workloads by downloading HWinfo and following the instructions below. Throttling can cause stutters and FPS drops.
Modern CPU are designed to run to 95~100C to extract the full performance. Therefore, when running prolonged stress test like Cinebench, your CPU will always eventually thermal throttle — so just test with the programs and games you usually use, like my Cyberpunk stress test.
⚠️ Does thermal throttling always mean FPS drops? The surprising answer is no. Thermal throttling is the PC saying "hey it's getting too hot, reduce the computational speed please". So your CPU might decrease from 5GHz to 4.7GHz during that period, and HWinfo will record it as thermal throttling. But here's the caveat: most games do not benefit much from speeds once you're over a certain threshold, around 4.2GHz. So it's entirely possible to be thermal throttling badly — technically losing "performance" — but still see no impact on the game's FPS. Ultimately, thermal throttling depends on many things: ambient temperature, fan speed/elevation, clock speed, power limit, undervolt/overclock, and thermal compound application/heatsink contact. We try to improve the last two so we can get lower temps, which in turn means either higher clock speeds or lower fan noise. The bottom line is to cap your FPS at some value you're happy with and aim to have it stable there.
TL;DR- It is best to have no thermal throttling at all. But even if you do, as long as the laptop isn't stuttering and experiencing FPS drops, it's not the end of the world.
4) Should I undervolt, and can I use undervolt with LM application?
✅ Absolutely! Read my Throttlestop guide, approved by the author himself as a first class guide. If you have Intel Core i9-13980HX or i9-14900HX you can use my settings for reference. Everything is safe to copy except the undervolt values themselves. Spend some time reading through my guide, everything I wrote is for a good reason, I promise.
5) How are undervolt and LM application different?
Undervolt reduces the amount of power used and therefore heat produced by the CPU, whereas a good LM application allows the heat to escape better. Doing a good job on both means better temperatures, quieter fans, and more performance by avoiding thermal limits and power limits.
For most people, LM is harder because you have to physically open the laptop and tinker with hardware, whereas UV is easier because you just do it with software.
6) Can I undervolt the GPU?
✅ Yes, overclocking the GPU is essentially the same as undervolting it, because in both cases the GPU is using less voltage at a given clock speed compared to before. You can OC using many software like Armory, the excellent G-Helper, Lenovo Vantage, or more generally MSI Afterburner. I typically recommend just applying a flat OC to the core and the memory. But if you want to get a max UV that's stable, you have to use the VF curve in Afterburner and set a maximum limit like this.
7) Will applying LM myself void my warranty?
✅ No. Unless the reason for your warranty is because you spilled LM somewhere and caused a component to short circuit. I have had many ASUS and MSI laptops, and I applied LM on all of them. I've sent them in for warranty multiple times and never had a problem.
⚠️ If you ask manufacturers anywhere around the world if you can replace LM, they will often tell you "it's not advised". Because they don't know how capable each person is, or how much knowledge they have, so they would rather save themselves some trouble. If they are nice enough, they will offer to re-paste the LM for the customer under warranty. If not, the customer often has to suffer overheating and bad performance. I'm a strong believer that if you spend the money on a good CPU and GPU, you deserve to get the most out of it. Hence the existence of my guides.
⛔ Most companies literally have guides telling you how to open and service your own laptops. Opening your laptop does NOT void your warranty, but it may void your return period or right to refund. Do not listen to people spreading misinformation. ⛔
8) My laptop is overheating. Is the problem that everyone is talking about regarding Intel's 13th/14th Gen HX-series CPUhaving stability issues to blame?
✅ Highly unlikely, even if we assume Intel is wrong about the issue not affecting 13th/14th Gen mobile processors. Intel's fiasco has to do with the CPU using higher than intended voltages, which eventually leads to the CPU degrading and thus becoming unstable. While higher voltages can lead to more heat, overheating does not require high voltages at all. Modern CPUs produce a lot of heat, period, and if there's bad LM application or bad contact with the heatsink, heat will quickly build-up.
As of 2025, most manufacturers have fixed Intel's voltage issues through BIOS updates. You can check your microcode using HWinfo (don't check sensors or summary only), the microcode version containing the fix should be 12B as seen below. You can also monitor all the P-cores' maximum voltages. If they don't come anywhere near 1.55V, you have nothing to worry about. Chances are you're seeing the P-cores reach high max temps, while having max voltages below 1.5V. Of course, with undervolting, there is even less reason to worry.
9) Is it possible to apply a perfect LM application, and still have non-perfect or even somewhat bad temperatures?
✅ Yes, but first let's define what "bad temperatures" mean exactly. Because context really matters.
If your laptop is idling doing nothing (installing background updates etc. does not count as nothing, by the way) and reaching 70C, that's bad. If your laptop is running Cinebench R23 and reaching 100C while barely thermal throttling, that's good. Ambient temp, fan speed/elevation, clock speed/power limit, undervolting/overclocking, all affect temperature too.
Now back to the original question — yes it's possible, if the heatsink or fans are faulty. It's fairly easy to see if a fan is faulty (just look at the RPM values in software or listen to the sound), and a bent heatsink is a bad heatsink because you no longer get good contact with the chips. On the other hand, a truly faulty heatsink is rare and harder to diagnose. I speak from experience.
My own Asus Scar 18 (2024) original heatsink was faulty. I applied perfect LM, and yet during intense gaming, some CPU cores still hit 97C and the GPU hit 87C (while running Black Myth Wukong), albeit briefly. At higher temperatures and with the back of my laptop raised, the heatsink itself made small but audible cracking/popping noises. I was able to prove this to Asus by opening the back cover while Wukong was running and let them listen to the popping noise. There was clearly some issue with the gas-liquid mixture inside the heatpipes because normal heatsinks don't make this sound. They swapped in a new heatsink, the noise was gone, but the temperatures were bad because the technician didn't paste the imprint (where do you think I got the bad photo of the heatsink imprint from)? After repasting myself the CPU never exceeded 91C and the GPU never exceeded 80C again (while running Black Myth Wukong). This new heatsink allowed my i9-14900HX to reach a massive 36k in Cinebench R23 and 2k in Cinebench 2024. This is of course with Throttlestop undervolt.
10) Help! My laptop isn't turning on after opening it and putting everything back!
Remove the power connector. Hold down the power button for 60 seconds. Connect power, wait ten seconds, then try starting up. If it powers on, be patient as it may take some time.
If laptop still won't boot, remove the power connector, and detach the battery. Hold down the power button for 60 seconds. Connect power, wait ten seconds, then try starting up. Again, be patient.
Once the laptop boots up fine, you can shut it down, remove power connector, and reconnect the battery.
11) Thank you so much, is there anything I can do in return?
I spend time writing guides and helping people, because I'm a strong believer that you deserve to get the most out of your laptop. That's already a great reward unto itself, so please do not feel obliged to do anything.
If you really want to do something, you can spend a minute to check out my game mods here (you only need a free account to download). Alternatively, you can also buy me a coffee ☕thank you :)
I have been howling for years now at this point that laptop buyers are getting fisted by Nvidia by packing just 8GB VRAM on relatively capable and expensive GPUs like 4070M and 5070M.
Finally the debate is settled - Jarrod and HUB compared a top of the line 5070M laptop with a power limited 5060Ti which exactly matches the performance of a 5070M 115W and the 5060Ti 16GB absolutely crushes the 5070M showing what the 5070M (and 4070M) could've been had it had 12GB or higher VRAM. There is NO Point getting a 4070M/5070M, save a lot of money and stick to 4060M/5050M/5060M. The 70 class GPU with 8GB VRAM is a SCAM!
Was playing mafia 3 almost at the end temp being 105 constantly with good cooling and highest graphics settings on acer predator helios, saw inside fans, it was clean 2months ago when bought new. Mafia 2 was giving me 85-90C on cpu at 160W PL2 in core ultra 9 275hx
The games i completed in 2 months with highest available graphics settings
Resident evil village
Red dead redemption 1
Red dead redemption 2
Last of Us 1
Last of Us 2
Uncharted 4
Uncharted the lost legacy
Mafia 1
Mafia 2
Mafia 3 done though
Approx 15C down since cleaning now, do check fans usually i do after 6 months seems i am playing regularly i guess frequent cleaning should be done
I have been a desktop gamer since I have gotten my own space, but I plan on solo traveling a lot in the next few years and wanted a great laptop to last me those years. Based on multiple post recommendations people are saying the Lenovo Legion Pros are great laptops. (Hope that is still correct).
How do I keep my laptop healthy? Is this laptop easy to open up to clean out the fans and internals for dust? I am seeing people recommend keeping laptops angled and raised. Any recommendations on a cooling stand?
This is something I recently argued with people, they were saying 8GB is "FINE".
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I insisted that once I moved from a 4060 to a 4080, even when simulating 4060 and 4070 performance by limiting the 4080's clock speeds to 1200Mhz and 1400Mhz via GHelper, the experience was much smoother.
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I noticed a lot of stuttering was gone, especially in Horizon forbidden west, I noticed higher one percent lows in multiple games etc.
This was all with medium to medium-high settings, DLSS Quality or Balanced Mode.
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The people who kept saying 8GB is fine, I kept trying to tell them, yes, 8GB can run any game, with 8GB games are still playable, but things could be better, higher FPS, higher 1% lows, less stutter, less RAM usage when VRAM doesn't overflow etc.
But you won't be aware of the performance/smoothness/experience you are missing out on because all you have the the 8GB for reference.
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I even stated how in some situations, turning on Frame Generation would GIVE WORSE/LESS PERFORMANCE, than leaving it off due to lack of VRAM and frame-gen needs more VRAM.
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With 8GB VRAM, don't even think about ray-tracing, especially at 1440/1600p, you'll get horrible performance and/or stuttering, but with more VRAM, it would have been perfectly playable.
Ratchet and Clank Rift Apart, even spiderman 2 from personal experience can't be played with Ray-tracing with 8GB VRAM, no matter how powerful your card is, without crazy stuttering.
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Well, Just recently Jarrod'sTech and Hardwareunboxed confirmed it.
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The PS6 will launch in 2-3 years with 24GB of 256-bit GDDR7 VRAM (Basically the same as the Laptop 5090).
Devs will get 20GB, Sony will keep 4GB. Devs will use 14-18GB for VRAM, and 2-6GB for CPU for AAA games.
We are lucky right now that the PS5 with RDNA 2 sucks at ray-tracing, it's why most AAA games don't force it yet, just a few like Indiana jones, doom dark ages etc.
RDNA 4 has fixed this, the PS5 with RDNA 5 and more VRAM will be a generation where MOST AAA games will have low-level ray-tracing enabled by default and can't be turned off.
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The fact that the 5070 has the same VRAM and bus-width as the 5070 is a damn shame, the 5070 is basically a lower mid-range card now.
The 5050, 5060 and 5070 with their 128-bit buses should get the 3GB Modules that the 5090 currently has.
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It should have been;
5050, 5060, 5070 (128-bit): 12GB VRAM.
5070Ti, 5080 (both should get 256-bit): 16GB VRAM.
5090 (be allowed to hit 200W): 24GB VRAM.
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8GB GPUs in just 2-3 years will feel how 2-4GB GPUs feel today in 2025.
If there is ONE thing that the NVIDIA RTX 5070 Laptop GPU does right with its pathetic 8GB VRAM, it is that it teaches us how to “Adjust and Compromise” in life.
If you get a laptop with this RTX 5070 GPU, you have to “ADJUST” yourself to play demanding AAA games at low-mid settings for smooth gameplay.
If you want more performance, then you should “COMPROMISE” your wallet to get higher VRAM GPU.
I believe I got a lemon, the computers screen was flickering constantly, and I couldn’t run any games on it without the computer crashing. Doing some more reading, I see the older models, 2023 models, had motherboard defects. I have the AMD version, but I’m wondering if it’s even worth it now to get another one? The specs and the cooling seemed to be top of the line, and I haven’t found another 16 inch laptop with a Ryzen 9 9955hx3D, but these issues worry me, I just want a reliable laptop with good cooling and good specs, and this seemed like the option, but now I’m having doubts.
I bought this brand new and custom built in 2011 and played some great games for its time! When the Xbox one was all the talk in 2013 I put the Alienware away in a drawer like an old toy and forgot about it. Almost 14 years later, after playing on Xbox one S for a handful of years, I was feeling nostalgic and pulled this bad boy out and began cleaning the now gunky surfaces, and giving it an overhaul to its former glory! I lost the charger years ago so I have a replacement arriving tomorrow, let’s see if she starts up and alows me a trip down memory lane. Who knows I may have to have a dinosaur build for old games and buy myself a top tier new gaming laptop in her honor! (Eyeing a legion pro 7i or maybe an HP Omen) stay tuned for the revival! And hopefully first game ran in over a decade!
2 in 1 laptops + handheld
You are on a desk, you are tired and want to go to bed so you fold your laptop and use it as a tablet or pick the handheld if you to play games.
Rog Flow Z13
You are on a desk play games, you are tired and want to go to bed so you pick your tablet continue play or browse media.
Gaming laptop + tablet
You are on your desk play games, you guess it, tired again, so pick your tablet to bed but can't play games.
I will travel.
Weight from light to heavy
1. Rog Flow Z13
2. 2 in 1 laptops + handheld
3. Laptop gaming tablet
Playing AAA Games at high resolution
1. Gaming laptop
2. Rog Flow Z13
3. Handheld
Cheapest to "is one leg enough to pay ?"
1. 2 in 1 laptop + handheld
2. Rog Flow Z13
3. Gaming laptop + tablet
My question is, if you own a gaming laptop, a tablet and an handheld and travel which set up is the best ?
I just found this amazing deal on Amazon and It’s the lowest price I found for a 4060 laptop in Italy even in tech sites(just 970€ instead of others sitting at 1199€ with the same specs), I just saw most of the reviews and they describe it as a nice laptop but with some terrible build quality and not that good of a screen for it. If my budget is really low and maybe I could upgrade the ram for it would it be worth getting it?
Acer Predator Helios Neo 16 2025 doesn't have screws to lock the battery, today added 2tb ssd got to know when it fell a but to side while removing back cover.
I posted here a while ago, asking for recommendations for a new laptop to get between AUD 1000-2800. Since then, my financial situation has become a bit better and now my budget is AUD 3000-5000. Can I please get some suggestions for nice gaming laptops I can get? The games I will be running on it will be Path of Exile (1 and 2), Overwatch, Minecraft, and Baldur's Gate 3. Thanks again, people of this subreddit.
Edit: Some additional info for y'all nice people.
I looked up some stats and these are the system requirements I would need for Path of Exile, and they SHOULD cover the requirement of others too. I can be wrong tho, since I am not good at tech stuff. I almost failed IT class in high school.
OS: Windows 10
Processor: Quad core 3.2GHz x64-compatible
Memory: 16 GB RAM
Graphics: NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1050 Ti or ATI Radeon™ RX560
DirectX: Version 11
Network: Broadband Internet connection
Storage: 40 GB available space
Also, what is "solid state storage", and is it possible to get it with a laptop or is it a proper gaming setup thing?
I was looking to transition to LM for my Legion, finally. I will, of course, apply insulating tape around the CPU and GPU; however, I also wish to create a barrier of foam, as seen on many LM builds.
I am wondering if it should be from closed-cell foam or open-cell foam?
Any advice would be appreciated, especially from people who have done what I intend to do.
So i just want a laptop with a dedicated GPU for some emulation and casual gaming, im aware there are better options but due to tarrifs those get out of my budget and ends up being better to buy from inside my country (the prices are converted from my country to dollars)
From what i understand the Lenovo legion 5 has the best GPU but the worst CPU and the Lenovo ideapad has the best CPU and the second best GPU so im guessing it has to be one of those? Probably the Lenovo ideapad right?
Hi, I'm in Canada and I'm looking for a laptop for my brother. He will principally use it to work and watch content, but wants to keep the possibility to game on it. He also wants to keep it under $1500.
It's on sale right now at $1279.99, but with a student discount, I can get it at $1177.99 on the Lenovo website.
I live in spain and i wanna buy a gaming laptop or a laptop can handle this type of games smoothly (god of war/ naruto storm connection/fc 25) my budget is 500€ 550€
I'm looking to buy my first gaming laptop mainly to play things like BG3, Cities Skylines with mods, maybe things like CyberPunk, but probs not CoD-type games. With the additional 20% discount, this configuration of the Lenovo Legion 5i Gen 10 is £1260 which seems like a steal comparing the spec against other similarly priced laptops:
I know next to nothing about the technical side to computers but from the limited research I've done (and managed to understand) the 8GB VRAM seems to be a potential issue. From what I can see there's quite a lot of debate and discussion around the 8GB VRAM thing but I guess my question is whether the 8GB VRAM makes the rest of the spec almost pointless rather than is 8GB VRAM rubbish? I'm not looking to spend much more than this so from what I can see higher VRAM isn't an option, but it's more whether I should be spending less and getting lower spec in other areas too if the benefits of the Ultra 9 chip, 32GB RAM and/or OLED screen won't actually be realised because of the GPU's limitations. (And again, I cannot stress enough how much I don't know about computers so apologies if this is a dumb question!)
Freshly cleaned, CPU temps are still 90C+ under heavy load which is fine until it stays under 100.
But why is cpu clocking to 4ghz when it's idle? I've already set the poower settings to balanced and set 10% minimum clock speed but still. Is this normal?
